Most visitors already have a mental picture of Jamaica before they arrive: its boisterous culture of reggae and Rastafarianism; its white-sand beaches; and its lush foliage, rivers, mountains, and clear waterfalls. Jamaica's art and cuisine are also remarkable.

Yet Jamaica's appealing aspects have to be weighed against its poverty, crime, and racial tensions, the legacy of colonial rule and subsequent political upheavals.

So, should you go? By all means. Just be prudent and cautious. The island has fine hotels and savory food. It's well geared to heterosexual couples who come to tie the knot or celebrate a honeymoon. And Jamaica boasts the best golf courses in the West Indies, some of the finest diving waters in the world, and good river rafting.

Crafts are a popular take-home item from Jamaica. Woodcarvings run the gamut from the horrible to the delightful; baskets are woven from palm fronds or the straw of an island plant known as the jipijapa. The island's inventory of woodcarvings and weavings is supplemented by establishments selling leather goods (sandals and shoes are often a good buy); locally made jewelry fashioned from gold, silver, onyx, and bone; and clothing (especially casual wear and sportswear) whose light textures nicely complement the heat of the tropics. Also noteworthy are the many handbags woven from straw or palm fronds, which are sometimes rendered more ornate through colorful embroidery applied by any of the island's "straw ladies."

Also noteworthy is the handful of art galleries that stock the paintings of local artists. Some art critics say the island's most valuable export, after aluminum, is its art. These paintings range from the banal and uninspired to evocative portrayals of universal themes.

Bargaining is welcome with handicrafts, especially in informal markets, but not in more formal stores. Expect a discount of around 15% to 20% off the original price.

A Word on Marijuana -- You will almost certainly be approached by someone selling ganja (marijuana) -- in fact, that's why many travelers come here. However, drugs, including marijuana, are illegal, and imprisonment is the penalty for possession. You don't want to experience the Jamaican penal system firsthand. Don't smoke pot openly in public. Of course, hundreds of visitors do and get away with it, but you may be the one who gets caught, and the person selling to you might even be a police informant. Above all, don't try to bring marijuana back into the United States. There are drug-sniffing dogs stationed at the Jamaican airports, and they will check your luggage. U.S. Customs agents, well aware of the drug situation on Jamaica, have arrested many tourists who have tried to bring some home.

The Java of Kings -- One of the world's most sought-after coffees, Blue Mountain Coffee is the drink of connoisseurs, favored from Tokyo to New York. The coffee is known for its good acidity, refined taste, particular sweetness, exquisite flavor, and an intense aroma.

The Blue Mountains north of Kingston reach a peak of 2,220m (7,400 ft.), making the coffee bean here one of the highest-elevation-grown coffees in the world. Introduced to Jamaica in 1728, the coffee is handpicked, and every stage of its production from hulling to sorting and grading is carefully supervised.

In Jamaica a ground 57-gram (2-oz.) gift pack usually retails for about $8, but it's probably far more expensive in your hometown if it's available at all. (Blue Mountain coffee beans in Japan, for example, sell for more than $60 per lb.)

The coffee is sold in most upscale gift shops in Jamaica, and makes an aromatic souvenir of your visit. We prefer to buy our supply while trekking through the Blue Mountains themselves.

Premium coffee is one of Jamaica's major exports, and you can buy it here much cheaper than at home.

Most casual visitors to Jamaica pick a resort without paying much attention to its location on the island. That is particularly true for guests who prefer to spend most of their time at an all-inclusive resort, venturing out only occasionally to shop or to see some of the local sights. Even so, knowing a bit about the different areas of Jamaica can help you find the perfect resort for you.

Most travelers who visit Kingston do so for business reasons. But for the true Jamaican culture buff, the island's largest city offers the most museums, the best galleries, and some great historic sights. It also has more nightlife than most of the top resorts, ranging from jazz and reggae clubs to upscale supper clubs and English theater. But you don't come here for beaches.

Port Antonio is for the elite traveler who wants to escape the mass package tours of Ocho Rios or Montego Bay. Come here for some good beaches, plus great river rafting, scuba diving, and snorkeling.

To the west, Ocho Rios features some of the grandest and most traditional resorts in Jamaica, as well as some of the leading Sandals properties. But it doesn't have the best beaches, shops, or scenic attractions. Nonetheless, if you're resort-oriented, this might be your choice.

The grande dame of Jamaica is Montego Bay, which boasts four of the poshest resorts in the Caribbean. Although we prefer the beaches of Negril, those of Montego Bay are equally fine (if crowded in winter). Shopping here is superb for Jamaica; nightlife is surprisingly lackluster.

Negril's great beaches are for hedonists and families.

The South Coast is for back-road adventurers. Chances are you'll overlook the inland city of Mandeville, although it's a good day trip from Negril or the South Coast.

Montego Bay

This is the number-one destination for all of Jamaica, appealing to the widest possible range of visitors. "Mo Bay," as it's known, has the best golf in the West Indies, and four of the grandest resorts on the island; the duty-free shopping here is great. This is about as far from rural Jamaica as you can get: The tourist dollar drives its economy. But it also boasts several attractions in its environs, including former great houses of plantations, decaying old towns such as Falmouth, and daylong adventures into remote Maroon Country.

Negril

Situated near Jamaica's relatively arid western tip, Negril enjoys a reputation as the nudist center of the West Indies, with a kind of gently provocative do-as-you-please attitude. Its Seven Mile Beach is one of the longest uninterrupted stretches of sand in the Caribbean. Other than that beach, its laidback lifestyle, and wild parties, there isn't much here. Outside the megaresorts, restaurants here tend to be locally run dives; amusing, but rarely the place for first-class cuisine.

The South Coast

The little-visited South Coast, lying east of Negril along the A2 (the road to Kingston), is undiscovered Jamaica -- although it's becoming better known all the time. Contrary to the island's lush, tropical image, this area is dry and arid. Hotels are few and far between, and they are frequently of the mom-and-pop persuasion. The chief draw here is Treasure Beach, tucked away on the secluded coast.

Mandeville

Located in south-central Jamaica, Mandeville is the country's highest-altitude town and is built in a style strongly influenced by the British. It is now the center of the island's noted coffee cultivation; a sense of slow-paced colonial charm remains a trademark of the town.

The North Coast

This region's primary natural attractions include its steeply sloping terrain, the setting for panoramic public gardens and dramatic waterfalls.

Set on a deep-water harbor easily able to accommodate cruise ships, Ocho Rios boasts a dense concentration of resort hotels and other vacation spots. It runs a very distant second to Montego Bay in its appeal, although its hinterlands do contain a number of Jamaica's premier attractions, including the overrun Dunn's River Falls. It also can't compete with Montego Bay in beaches or nightlife. What it does offer, however, are some of the grandest resorts in the Caribbean.

Directly west of Ocho Rios is the satellite town of Runaway Bay, which boasts a handful of resorts opening onto some good beaches and has the distinct advantage of not being as overrun with tourists as Ocho Rios.

The hub of verdant eastern Jamaica, Port Antonio still basks in nostalgia. Frequently photographed for its Victorian/Caribbean architecture, it is a refreshing change of pace from touristy Negril, Ocho Rios, and Montego Bay. Beaches such as San San are among the most alluring in the country, and this is also a base for exploring some of the major attractions in Jamaica's hinterlands, including rafting on the Rio Grande River.

Kingston & Spanish Town

Located on the southeast coast, Kingston is Jamaica's capital, largest city, and principal port. It's a cosmopolitan city with approximately 750,000 residents in its metropolitan area and serves as the country's economic, cultural, and government center. Residents proudly call it the world's reggae capital as well. The city's northern district, New Kingston, consists mostly of high-rises, modern buildings, business hotels, and upscale homes. There are, however, extensive poverty-stricken areas as well, and it's not the safest city to visit.

Nevertheless, Kingston could make for a fascinating 1-day visit; it has more cultural attractions, including the National Gallery, than anywhere else on the island.

Nearby are the remains of Port Royal, once an infamous lair of pirates and renegades. Twenty minutes west of Kingston by car is Spanish Town, a slow-paced village containing the Cathedral of St. James.

The Blue Mountains

A land of soaring peaks and deep valleys with luxuriant vegetation, the Blue Mountain range rises to the north of Kingston. Mountain roads wind and dip, and they are in bad repair, so don't try to visit on your own: It's easy to get lost. However, travel agents in Kingston can book you into tours throughout this region of coffee plantations and rum factories. Maintained by the government, the prime part of the mountain range is the 192-acre Blue Mountain-John Crow Mountain National Park.

The bad news is that dining in Jamaica is generally more expensive than in either the United States or Canada. Restaurant prices are more in tune with Europe, as virtually everything must be imported except the fish and Caribbean lobster. Service charges are automatically added to most restaurant tabs, usually 10% to 15%. Even so, if service has been good, it's customary to tip extra.

To save money, many visitors prefer the Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes room, breakfast, and one main meal per day, almost always dinner. You can then have lunch somewhere else, or if your hotel has a beach, order a light a la carte lunch at the hotel, the cost of which is added to your bill. On some MAP plans, you can arrange in advance to exchange lunches for dinners, so you can go out a few times. This is true for affiliated resorts such as Sandals, which has more than one hotel in the same resort, as it does in Montego Bay and Ocho Rios.

The American Plan (AP), on the other hand, includes all three meals each day. Drinks, including wine, are usually extra. On this plan, it's cheaper and you don't need to rent a car or taxi at night, but you'll miss out on different dining experiences around your resort.

Before booking a hotel, it's wise to have a clear understanding of what is included in the various meal plans offered.

If you plan to eat out, here are some tips:

Business Hours -- Banks are open Mon-Thurs 8:30 or 9am to 2 or 3pm and Fri 8:30 or 9am-4 or 4:30pm. Store hours vary, but as a rule most business establishments open at 8:30am and close at 4:30 or 5pm Monday through Friday. Some shops open Saturday until noon.

Currency Exchange -- There are Bank of Jamaica exchange bureaus at both international airports (near Montego Bay and Kingston), at cruise ship piers, and in most hotels.

Doctors -- Many major resorts have doctors on call. If you need any particular medicine or treatment, bring evidence such as a letter from your home doctor.

Electricity -- Most places use the standard electrical voltage of 110, as in the U.S. However, some establishments still operate on 220 volts, 50 cycles. If your hotel is on a different current than your U.S.-made appliance, ask for a transformer and adapter.

Embassies, Consulates & High Commissions -- Calling embassies or consulates in Jamaica is a challenge. Phones will ring and ring before being picked up, if they are answered at all. Extreme patience is needed to reach a live voice on the other end. The embassy of the United States is located at the Jamaica Mutual Life Building, 2 Oxford Rd., Kingston 5 (tel. 876/929-4850). The High Commission of Canada is situated at 3 West Kings House Rd., Kingston 10 (tel. 876/926-1500). The High Commission of the United Kingdom is found at 28 Trafalgar Rd., Kingston 10 (tel. 876/510-0700).

Emergencies -- For police and air rescue, dial tel. 119; to report a fire or call an ambulance, dial tel. 110.

Mail -- Instead of going to a post office, you can, in most cases, give mail to the hotel reception. Most hotels also sell stamps. Allow about a week for an airmail postcard or letter to reach North America. Increases in postal charges may be implemented at any time, so ask about the current rate before depositing mail. For mail to any business listed in this book, remember to include "Jamaica, W.I." in the address. Call tel. 876/922-9431 in Kingston with questions. For important items, consider a courier service such as DHL (tel. 876/922-7333) or Federal Express (tel. 876/952-0411).

Newspapers & Magazines -- Jamaica supports three daily newspapers (Daily Gleaner, The Jamaica Record, and Daily Star), several weekly periodicals, and a handful of other publications. U.S. newsmagazines, such as Time and Newsweek, as well as occasional copies of the Miami Herald, are available at most newsstands.

Nudity -- Nude sunbathing and swimming are allowed at a number of hotels, clubs, and beaches (especially in Negril), but only where signs state that swimsuits are optional. Elsewhere, law enforcement officials won't even allow topless sunbathing.

Passports -- Allow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processing normally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (especially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry, you'll pay a higher processing fee.

For Residents of Australia: You can pick up an application from your local post office or any branch of Passports Australia, but you must schedule an interview at the passport office to present your application materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at tel. 131-232, or visit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of Canada: Passport applications are available at travel agencies throughout Canada or from the central Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (tel. 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

For Residents of Ireland: You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (tel. 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh). Those under age 18 and over 65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork (tel. 021/272-525) or at most main post offices.

For Residents of New Zealand: You can pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website. Contact the Passports Office at tel. 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

For Residents of the United Kingdom: To pick up an application for a standard 10-year passport (5-yr. passport for children under 16), visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the United Kingdom Passport Service at tel. 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of the United States: Whether you're applying in person or by mail, you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department website at http://travel.state.gov. To find your regional passport office, either check the U.S. State Department website or call the National Passport Information Center toll-free number (tel. 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Pharmacies -- Prescriptions are only accepted by local pharmacies if they were issued by a Jamaican doctor. Luckily, hotels have doctors on call. If you need any particular medicine or treatment, bring evidence, such as a letter from your own physician.

Police -- Dial tel. 119.

Radio & TV -- Jamaica is served by two major radio broadcasters. Radio Jamaica (RJR) is the more popular of the two, partly because of its musical mix of reggae, rock [?]n' roll, and talk-show material. RJR's two island-wide services are known as Supreme Sound and FAME FM. The second broadcaster is Jamaica Broadcasting Corporation (JBC), which also operates the island's only television station (JBC-TV, established in 1963). Many of the better hotels offer CNN and other satellite channels.

Taxes -- The government imposes between 10% to 15% room tax, depending on your category of hotel. You'll be charged a US$37 departure tax at the airport, payable in either Jamaican or U.S. dollars. There's also a 20% government tax on rental cars and a 20% tax on all overseas phone calls.

Telephone, Telex & Fax -- Even the island's smallest hotels maintain their own fax machines. For telexes, contact the local branch of Cleveland Walace Jamaica, the country's telecommunications operators. In Kingston its address is 47 Halfway Tree Rd. (tel. 876/926-9700).

Time -- During the winter, Jamaica is on Eastern Standard Time, the same as New York and Toronto. When the United States is on daylight saving time, however, it's 6am in Miami and 5am in Kingston; Jamaica does not switch to DST.

Tipping -- Tipping is customary in Jamaica. Typically 10% or 15% is expected in hotels and restaurants on occasions when you would normally tip. Most places add a service charge to the bill, but a little extra (3%-5%) is often expected for good service. Tipping is not "officially" allowed at all-inclusive resorts.

Useful Telephone Numbers -- Ambulance, tel. 110; fire, tel. 110; police, tel. 119; time, tel. 117; toll operator and telephone assistance on local and intraisland calls, tel. 112; overseas calls operator, tel. 113; Post and Telephone Department, tel. 876/922-9430. You reach MCI at tel. 800/888-8000; AT&T at tel. 800/CALLATT; and Sprint at tel. 800/877-8000.

Water -- It's usually safe to drink tap water island-wide; however, it's prudent to drink bottled water, if available. We do.

Jamaica has its own dollar, far less valuable than the U.S. dollar. In all exchanges, determine which dollar unit is being quoted in the price. Otherwise, it's possible you could get cheated -- badly -- in a financial transaction.

All the major resorts and first-class restaurants quote prices in U.S. dollars, so many visitors can go through their entire trip without the bother of converting their currency into Jamaican dollars. But it's still prudent to carry some Jamaican dollars: For some transactions, such as a drink of coconut water from a roadside vendor, prices are only quoted in Jamaican dollars.

If you have Jamaican dollars left over at the end of your trip, you'll need to show exchange receipts from a bank or other official bureau for the local dollars you purchased. This is a rather cumbersome process. Exchange only the amount of Jamaican money you think you'll actually need.

You can live in Jamaica on $50 a day or $1,000 a day. It's up to you. In general costs are lower than in urban cities in the United States and a lot lower than London and continental cities such as Paris or Rome. Guests usually book into hotels, especially all-inclusives, on package deals, which considerably cut costs. Restaurants charging more than $30 for a meal are considered expensive by Jamaican standards. Many native restaurants, catering to a local clientele, charge less than $15 for a complete dinner.

Note: Prices in this guide quoted in Jamaican dollars are for general guidance. The Jamaican dollar sometimes fluctuates wildly. In general, it has been in a long decline against the Yankee dollar since the early 1990s.

All Jamaican cities and most large towns on the island have banks with a foreign exchange bureau. If you're heading into the remote countryside, make sure you have solved your cash problem before setting out. Banks give far better exchange rates than your hotel will.

Because of inadequate ATMs, traveler's checks are still a popular means of currency to take to Jamaica. They are widely accepted, but you should always inquire about the fee before cashing them. Sometimes there's a high surcharge, which can vary from place to place.

Relying on ATMs is a bit risky in Jamaica. Most banks in cities such as Kingston and Montego Bay have 24-hour ATMs in secure booths. You are, however, given Jamaican dollars -- not U.S. dollars -- at these machines. Always try to use ATMs during regular business hours. There are frequent muggings of visitors who use ATMs at night in Jamaica.

Be aware that many Frommer's readers have written to describe their frustration with the island's ATMs. It's best to ask your local bank how effective your ATM card will be in Jamaica before you depart. Failing all else, we've found that branches of Scotiabank work best with North American ATM cards.

Currency

The unit of currency in Jamaica is the Jamaican dollar, with the same symbol as the U.S. dollar, "$." There is no fixed rate of exchange for the Jamaican dollar; it is traded publicly and is subject to market fluctuations.

Visitors to Jamaica can pay for any goods in U.S. dollars, but be careful. Always insist on knowing whether a price is quoted in Jamaican or U.S. dollars.

In this guide we quote some prices in both Jamaican and U.S. dollars, though for the most part U.S. dollars are listed alone because the Jamaican dollar tends to fluctuate. U.S. dollar values give a better indication of costs. Prices given in Jamaican dollars are indicated by "J$"; all other prices are in U.S. dollars.

There are Bank of Jamaica exchange bureaus at both international airports (Montego Bay and Kingston), at cruise ship piers, and in most hotels. Also, there is no limit to the amount of foreign currency you can bring into or out of Jamaica.

Finally, whenever you leave your hotel, take along some small bills and coins. They will come in handy, as tips are generally expected for even the smallest service.

ATMs -- The easiest and best way to get cash away from home is from an ATM (automated teller machine) -- bearing in mind the concerns about them in Jamaica that we note above -- sometimes referred to as a "cash machine" or a "cashpoint." The Cirrus (tel. 800/424-7787; www.mastercard.com) and PLUS (tel. 800/843-7587; www.visa.com) networks span the globe; look at the back of your bank card to see which network you're on, and then call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. Be sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) and daily withdrawal limit before you depart. Note: Remember that many banks impose a fee every time you use a card at another bank's ATM, and that fee can be higher for international transactions (up to $5 or more) than for domestic ones (where they're rarely more than $2). In addition, the bank from which you withdraw cash may charge its own fee. For international withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

Credit Cards -- Plastic is invaluable when traveling in Jamaica. Credit cards are another safe way to carry money. They also provide a convenient record of all your expenses, and they generally offer relatively good exchange rates. You can withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at banks or ATMs, provided you know your PIN. (If you've forgotten your PIN or didn't even know you had one, call the phone number on the back of your credit card and ask the bank to send it to you. It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or pass some other security clearance. Keep in mind that you'll pay interest from the moment of your withdrawal, even if you pay your monthly bills on time. Also, note that many banks now assess a 1% to 3% "transaction fee" on all charges you incur abroad (whether you're using the local currency or your native currency).

Traveler's Checks -- Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism at many destinations. They are still widely used, however, in Jamaica because of inadequate ATM machines. Traveler's checks are also good if you want the security of knowing you can get a refund if your wallet is stolen in Jamaica. You can buy traveler's checks at most banks. They are offered in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and sometimes $1,000. Generally, you'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.

The most popular traveler's checks are offered by American Express (tel. 800/807-6233 or 800/221-7282 for card holders -- this number accepts collect calls and offers service in several foreign languages), Visa (tel. 800/732-1322), and MasterCard (tel. 800/223-9920). American Express exempts gold and platinum cardholders from its 1% fee. AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling tel. 866/339-3378.

American Express, Thomas Cook, Visa, and MasterCard offer foreign currency traveler's checks, which are useful if you're traveling to one country, or to the Euro zone; they're accepted at locations where dollar checks may not be.

If you carry traveler's checks, keep a record of their serial numbers separate from your checks in the event that they are stolen or lost. You'll get a refund faster if you know the numbers.

Moneygrams -- Sponsored by American Express, Moneygram (tel. 800/926-9400; www.moneygram.com) is the fastest-growing money-wiring service in the world. Funds can be transferred from one individual to another in less than 10 minutes between thousands of locations throughout the world. An American Express phone representative will give you the names of four or five offices near you. (You don't have to go to an American Express office; some locations in Jamaica are pharmacies or convenience stores in small communities.) Acceptable forms of payment include cash, Visa, MasterCard, and Discover, and occasionally, a personal check. Service charges collected by American Express are $40 for the first $500 sent, with a sliding scale of commissions for larger sums. Included in the transfer is a 10-word telex-style message. The deal also includes a free 3-minute phone call to the recipient. Funds are transferred within 10 minutes, and they can then be retrieved by the beneficiary at the most convenient location when proper photo ID, and in some cases, a security code established by whomever provides the funds, is presented.

What To Do If Your Wallet Is Stolen

Be sure to block charges against your account the minute you discover a credit card has been lost or stolen. Then be sure to file a report at the nearest Jamaican police station.

Every credit card company has an emergency 800-number to call if your card is stolen. They may be able to wire you a cash advance off your credit card immediately, and in many places they can deliver an emergency credit card in a day or two. The issuing bank's 800-number is usually on the back of your credit card -- although, of course, if your card has been stolen, that won't help you unless you recorded the number elsewhere.

Citicorp Visa's U.S. emergency number is tel. 800/336-8742. American Express cardholders and traveler's-check holders should call tel. 800/221-7282. MasterCard holders should call tel. 800/307-7309. Otherwise, call the toll-free number directory at tel. 800/555-1212.

Odds are that if your wallet is gone, the Jamaican police won't be able to recover it for you. However, it's still worth informing them. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police report number or record of the theft. Likewise, if you carry traveler's checks, be sure to keep a record of their serial numbers separate from the checks. You'll get a refund faster if you do.

High Season vs. Low Season: Some Pros and Cons

With its fabled weather balmy all year, Jamaica is more and more a year-round destination. Nevertheless, it has a distinct high season running roughly from mid-December through mid-April. Hotels charge their highest prices during this peak winter period, when visitors fleeing cold north winds crowd the island. (We've quoted each hotel's rack rates throughout this guide, but you don't have to pay that much, even in high season, if you book a package instead of calling the hotel directly.)

Reservations should be made 2 to 3 months in advance for trips during the winter. At certain hotels, think about booking a year ahead for Christmas holidays or February.

The off season in Jamaica (roughly mid-Apr to mid-Dec) amounts to a summer sale. In most cases, hotel rates are slashed a startling 20% to 60%. Some package-tour charges are as much as 20% lower, and individual excursion airfares are reduced from 5% to 10%. In addition, airline seats and hotel rooms are much easier to come by. It's a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially families.

Off-Season Advantages -- Although Jamaica may appear inviting in the winter to those who live in northern climates, we suggest many reasons why your trip may be much more enjoyable if you go in the off season: